On Snow Blower Maintenance

Is your snow blower not blowing snow?  Is your snow thrower not throwing snow?

There are a few fundamental points to remember when using snow blowers.  These points come up during the conversations we have with customers in our store on the topic of these machines.

Usually, people call or come in a few days before the big storm asking if we service power equipment at Round's True Value Hardware.  We do not.  We can recommend Boats and Motors in Wakefield and Brad at North Shore Customs in Stoneham at 857.249.4082.  There are others in the general area and even out of the area. Some are very formal like Maestranzi Brothers in Beverly to that guy somewhere on some street in Stoneham who works out of his garage.  The talented retired grandfathers repairing machines in their garages have been done in by zoning enforcement.

 A desirable service in the power equipment business is pick up and drop off.  Expect to pay at least a hundred dollars above the cost of repair for this service.  

The challenge with snow removal equipment is always time. There is a shortage of small equipment service facilities.  Unless you had your snow blower at the shop in August and dropped off in October, expect serving by a professional to take two or more weeks.  For a breakdown in January, you might not get your machine back until March.

Because service facilities will be overwhelmed by even a modest snow storm, it is best to plan WAY ahead for your servicing needs.

Round's True Value recommends that you do as much routine maintenance on your own as you can to avoid a trip to the repair shop.  In our more cynical moments, we can argue that consumer-level equipment is engineered to go from factory to distribution to retailer, then to you.... and finally to the land fill or scrap facility.  There is not a  loop back in that progression to a repair station.  

One encouraging factor is that a machine can reach a reasonable age following simple strategies and performing simple maintenance.

Since most snow blowers in our market are gasoline-powered, that's what I will treat here.   There is an increasing number of battery-driven units as well as the traditional corded, household current driven snow blower.  These are not addressed here.  I will say that the usual problems with "power shovels" is a burned or broken belt followed by burned out motors.  Light weight power cords will not deliver adequate current to a snow blower. Use a 14/3 or the heavier 12/3 for longer lengths.  With battery-driven units, the charging system can fail and belts can break.  

It is reasonable to for the average person with a few tools to perform routine maintenance on a machine.  There are strategies you can follow that could keep your machine out of the repair shop for the entire life of the machine.  We offer basic supplies and parts at Round's True Value to help you keep your machine operating and ready to blow... or throw... snow. 

Here are a few "Round's Rules" to keep you going.

Round's Rules for Snow Blowers

1. Use TruFuel or an equivalent ethanol-free gasoline.  This is NOT pumped at the gas station.  Gas Station gasoline is engineered for cars and contains a mandated ten percent or more of ethanol (alcohol derived from corn) to satisfy environmental policy regulations.  It has a limited shelf life and will damage small engine fuel systems unless managed properly with additives and run out completely from the gas tanks at the end of the season.  The usual repair for a fuel problem on a small engine is a new carburetor. Labor and parts to clean up a small engine fuel failure is a significant down payment on a new machine.  Fuel is an industry-wide issue.  Ignore it at your peril.  Most warranty claims are rejected due to fuel issues followed by running equipment without oil.

2. YouTube is your friend.  Someone who speaks your language has had your problem and has posted a video with a solution to it.   Use that resource.

3.  Change oil on a new machine after a few hours of operation and at least once per season thereafter.  Mechanics argue about this ceaselessly.  Follow the engine manual recommendations.  5w30 is the usual oil to use.  Some purists say synthetic oil is superior.  Put the right amount of oil in your unit.  They generally do not take a full quart.  Check the dipstick on level ground. Too much oil can be just as bad as too little.

4.  Change your spark plug or plugs once a season.  They are cheap and easy to change.  

5. You usually receive two manuals with your machine. Keep them both.  One from the engine manufacturer and one from the snow blower manufacturer.  There are two major parts to your snow blower:  The engine... and everything else.  The engine will give you the most trouble, but the everything else can present problems.  Wear and tear will happen.  Be ready.

5.  There will be belts on most units.  Sometimes two.  Have spares for your machine. These will stretch, wear, and break. There can sometimes be adjustments you can make to increase belt life.  

6.  Shear pins.  A shear pin is a bolt and nut or a steel pin with a cotter pin retainer designed to break if something jambs the auger assembly. IF the auger fails to turn, you have one or two broken shear pins. Ice, kids toys, rocks, and tree branches in the snow will do this.   You will need wrenches. a small hammer, and a pin punch ( a thin punch tool designed to be struck and follow a broken bolt through a shaft. Don't ask for or use "stronger bolts."  Shear pins protect your equipment from expensive damage.

7.  Clogged snow thrower chutes and augers.  Never put your hand in a snow blower ejection chute. Use a plastic chute tool.  If you don't have one, use a wooden dowel or broom handle.  Don't use a steel crowbar or your arm.  Hint:  Spray the interior of the chute and the auger housing with Silicone lubricant.  Round's stocks a few sprays specifically for snow blowers. If the snow does not stick, it will not clog as frequently.

8.   Tires.  After a few years, snow blower tires can dry out and suffer "dry rot."   Snow blower tires are usually tubeless units.  Check inflation several times a year.  You can prolong a tire's life with a tire tube.  Round's sells tires and tubes, but we do not install them.  

9.  Control cables.  These can stretch and rust to the point of failure.  These will not be readily available locally. You should order on-line when they look bad.

10.  Clean up the driveway as frequently as you can.   Doing six inches at a time is better than 18 inches at once.

11. Snow blowers can last a long time with proper care and maintenance. Winter time operations are without the dust and dirt that plagues lawn mowers. Even if you run your machine only 3 hours a season, do the full maintenance.

12. Bearings. There are replaceable bearings on the wheel drive axles and the auger shafts.  If there are provisions to lubricate these, do it.  Follow  the manufacturer's manual recommendations for all lubrication points.  Most will be "permanently lubricated." This means that they run until burn-out.  Some oil might be helpful, but grease is the proper lubricant.

13.  Wash the unit down with a hose or a pressure washer.  Snow removal is often accompanied by ice melter use, and these products can be very corrosive.

14.  As part of your maintenance, look for loose bolts.  Tighten them up.

15.  You snow blower has snow shoes.  There are usually "shoes" on either side at the bottom of the auger housing.  These are designed to govern the height of the snowblower cut and to protect the auger housing.  These will wear out.  You can sometimes flip them to get another year out of them.

16.  Consumables to keep on hand:  Belts, shear pins, auger lubricating spray, TruFuel 4-cycle Fuel, engine starting spray. Small snow blowers can use 2-cycle engines. Know what you have.

17.  An additional comment about fuel:   TruFuel is too expensive.  It is in comparison to gas station gas.  Mechanic's time is far more expensive than fuel, and he or she will not be able to help you when needed most.

18.  Snow Blower Emergencies:  It will not start.   Old gas?  Drain it and replace with TruFuel.   Pull starter cord to get fuel into the system. Pull the air cleaner cover and filter. Spray motor starter spray into the carburetor.  Try starting again. 

19.  Dead engine revival videos are all over Youtube.  Try to avoid arriving at the emergency stage by performing routine maintenance before the season begins.

WHR 10.03.23  Round's True  Value Hardware

Download